2022 Elio Grasso Gavarini Vigna Chiniera Barolo DOCG, Italy California Stars ocean-cooled sites across the northern

ocean-cooled sites across the northern Santa Cruz Mountains—predominantly Alpine

all wrapped in a supple

Saint-Romain’s tendency to produce kinetic red wines of palpable minerality is on full display here

where the is its most rocky

2022 Elio Grasso Gavarini Vigna Chiniera Barolo DOCG, Italy California Stars ocean-cooled sites across the northernThis is a positively stellar set of wines from Elio Grasso. The 2022 Barolos are terrific. "The classic parameter we look at is time from budbreak to harvest," Gianluca Grasso explained. "Ideally, we want to see a cycle of 210 days. In 2022, it was 190." Grasso opted to keep the fruit as shaded as possible to extend the cycle. The results are evident in tasting; these are some of the most compelling wines of the vintage. I also had a chance to revisit